When I’m not in the mood for self drafting a piece from scratch, I alter patterns I already have. The following few have become my ‘blocks’ — simple patterns with a predictable fit that I tweak with each new project. Sorry if you’ve seen me plug these before… but like… I CAN’T STOP USING THEM. #worthit
PULLOVER/HOODIE by McCall’s
Indie patterns are great but sometimes you gotta roll with the BIG4 every now and then. Unfortunately it looks like my go-to (McCall’s M7986) is no longer in production, but this pattern is similar & a printable digital-download. I like to mix it up by making it full-zip, as seen on the quilted coat. I’ve also made it button-up, as seen on the brown fleece. I have made exactly ONE hoodie (seen on the far right). Regardless of other alterations, I tend to use bias tape instead of folded hems because it can reduce the fabric weight on seams (and also for decoration).
THE LANE PANTS by SydGrahamPatterns
Fun fact: I learned how to do pockets by making these pants! I love the fit, length, and look of these, so anytime I need a fresh pair of pants, I reach for this pattern as a jumping-off point. Sometimes I do an elastic waist, sometimes I fuck over my future-self by omitting the pockets, and sometimes I opt for making shorts instead. A must have.
THE SIENNA CROP TOP by SlowSewingStudio
This pattern makes a great zipper-free top that isn’t too casual. Admittedly, I’ve never actually made it pattern-perfect as it says to finish seams with bias tape and I prefer a fully-faced look (seen in the middle). I’ve also used the sleeve and neckline measurements of it to make a gathered-bodice top (seen left). Conversely, I’ve used the side seam measurements and a bias tape neckline to create my quilted tank (seen right). Possibilities = endless.
HONORABLE MENTION: SIMPLICITY 2948
As I was combing through my pattern collection to write this post, I stumbled upon a gem. Though I’ve yet to sew anything with it, Simplicity 2948 from the Khaliah Ali Collection is a 5-in-1 pattern and all 5 garments look BOMBBBBBBBB. A slinky dress, simple tank, flowy skirt, wide-leg pants, cardigan. More than a full outfit of potential and a very trendy fit rn.
It’s discontinued and from 2008… but if you can track one down in your size, this pattern is a thrifty alternative to buying blocks. It’s sized for stretch cotton but you can always alter the seam allowances to add zippers/buttons after watching a quick YouTube tut.
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